Modern costume jewelry uses a wide variety of materials. High-end pieces use crystals, cubic zirconia simulated diamonds and semi-precious gemstones, while lower-priced items may be made of metal alloys such as gold- or silver-plated brass, sterling (925) silver or vermeil. Other items may incorporate plastic, leather or other textiles.
Costume jewelry came into its own after the Second World War, when there was a surplus of inexpensive materials and the rise of a new middle class that wanted to look rich without spending a fortune. Costume jewelry is generally mass produced and can be flashy and gaudy, although it also comes in subdued forms to imitate more upscale jewelry.
Many costume pieces are stamped with the maker’s name or the brand name. This information can help you identify the piece and its vintage. Jewelry marked with the manufacturer’s name or a designer’s signature is often worth more than unsigned pieces.
For example, Kenneth Jay Lane’s “K.J.” mark denotes his early work in the 1960s and 1970s. His later pieces incorporated Swarovski rhinestones and quality crystal beads. His earlier pieces often featured faux pearls to coordinate with his line of shoes. He was a designer for Arnold Scassi and Robert DeMario before launching his own company.
If the jewelry you’re interested in isn’t stamped, look for other clues such as the color of the metal and whether or not the stones are faceted. You can also try a magnet test by touching the clasps or springs of the jewelry to a magnet. If it attracts or sticks to the magnet, it’s probably not real silver or gold.